Gasherbrum-I Expedition 2016
Fact about Gasherbrum-I
Altitude: 8068 m
Position: 11th highest
First ascent: July 5, 1958 by Andrew Kauffman and Peter Schoening
Death Rate after summit: 11.89%
The first successful ascend was made on July 5, 1958 by an American Expedition led by Mr. Nick Clinch where his two fellow climbers Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman reached on the summit for the first time.
Originally we planned to climb Gasherbrum-I and then K2. Since we started bit late, we got the news of setting route on K2 to camp-III which was not true when we reached there. So we choose to go K2 first and then to G1. We set our camp and started acclimatizing. We made ourselves ready for K2 summit push and tried for 13th July but we had to postpone our expedition because of bad weather. Then we again made our summit plan for 26th July.
The avalanche on 23rd July at camp-3 of K2 washed away all our climbing equipment and rope prepared for summit push. That closed everyone’s hope of reaching summit in 2016. On 24th July everyone got down to base camp and started packing to go home. Dream remained dream…….
We still had our plan of climbing Gasherbrum-I so we called our porters to go Gasherbrum base camp. We waited two days in K2 base camp for porters to come there.
Our another team on Mt Gasherbrum-II started summit push on 25thJuly night. I was in contact with them talking on radio from K2 base camp. We had very powerful radio signal that made our communication easier. Whole the day, tried to get connected and waiting for them to reach summit. At around 12 pm, Dawa told the weather was getting cloudy and started snowing and all climbers were talking to abort the summit push. But our weather report showed clear weather and I had already requested my teacher to give us time to time update on that day. I phoned him and he told the weather would be clear within few minutes. Therefore I asked team on Gasherbrum-I to continue or wait for while. After an hour, I got radio call again and they mentioned the weather was clean and clear and they were approaching to summit. I took the breathe of relief.
Our team at K2 were discussing to give one more try on K2 which for me was worthless and I strongly felt that if try K2 then we would loose our chance to summit G1 also. Whole the day I didn’t talk with team at K2 because I was more worried for G2 climbing team. Finally at around half passed 2 pm, I got radio call saying that 8 of them made it to G2 summit and remaining other team all returned back. So this year, only 8 climbers made to G2 summit. Climbing is not over yet, still all the way back to camp-III remains after the summit too. If you see the history of mountaineering then more accident occurred while descending. So we had to wait for their safe return back to camp-III. Dawa radioed me after they crossed the long traverse on the way to summit. I felt like it was done safely. I told him to contact me reaching camp-III and within an hour he said they were having tea at camp. Congratulation to whole team on Gasherbrum-II and have safe return to camp-I tomorrow. Goodnight.