K2 Expedition 2014   


                                                     Mingma's Team on K2 summit




                                                                                  Mt K2 with our Buddhist prayer flag and some countries flag

      Introduction of Mt. K2 is not necessary as it is already so famous by a sentence, “Mountain of Mountains”. Mt K2 lying on the borderline between Pakistan and China with altitude of 8611m is the second highest peak in the world. It is also popular by Baltro Glacier which is the world’s longest glacier.

K2 was named as K2 by British surveyor T.G Montgomerie in 1852. During his survey from Mt Haramukh 125 miles to south noted two prominent peaks to north. They were unknown with their names. So he named it K1 and K2 with “K” denoting Karakoram Range and “2” as it was listed as second peak from there.

K2 was first tried in 1902 by British team consisting of 6 climbing members. The team was lead by Aleister Crowley and Oscar Eckenstein. The team made 5 summit attempts but they were forced to give up because of continuous bad weather.

  The famous and usual way that most climbers ascent K2 is Abruzzi Spur. It was first tried in 1909 by Italian team led by Prince Luigi Amedeo. But they were able to go till 6250m only.  All the 6 expeditions tried in 1902, 1909, 1934, 1938, 1939 and 1953 were failed. In 1954, Italian team started with over 500 porters, 11 climbers, and six scientists. One of the climbers died of pneumonia after 40 days of raging storms but two climbers, Achille Compagnoni and Lino lacedelli made successful attempt to summit on 31st July via Abruzzi spur.


                       Description of climbing Route in my own

                                                                                    Base Camp to Camp-I

Base camp to camp-I is long way.  Till the advance base camp (ABC), its easy and straight path but we should be very careful with small but deep ice lake.  At the ending part of ice, we need to pass through little scary ice fall just below the ABC. We saw the short scary ice fall kept on changing during our up and down acclimatization progress.


Climbing starts after ABC. The way is fixed with rope all the way to camp-I and above. The way is little steeply but it is only snow and rock in some place. Using Jumor (Ascender), everyone can climb smoothly.  It takes around 3 hrs to reach camp-I from ABC

I climbed till camp-I without hardness and carampones on my first day. I was just using my two walking pole and climbing up, I met with Mr Simone from Italy who climbed with my brother on Manaslu in 2011 and he told me fucking strong brothers.  I felt it is quiet easy and I did it only with my walking poles. 

                                                                                                                                                                                                Looking down from Camp-I 



                                                                                               Camp-I to camp-II


                                                                                                   Looking down from lower Camp-II

      The way from camp-I to camp-II is little harder for climbers because of Chimney House and straight steeply black rock climbing just below lower camp-II. The way from camp-I to half way to camp-II is more on snow so it is easy. When you are on the half way then starts more rocky section. Since it is rocky, more climbers may feel difficult to walk by carampones. But the rocky way is not bad to climb. It takes around 4-5 hours for climbers to reach camp-II from camp-I.


                                                                                        Camp-II to camp-III


                                                                                         Route just above from camp-II to camp-III

                             The hardest part of climbing for climbers can be between camp-II and camp-III because it’s more on rock. There are some snowy part between rocky section so everyone must wear carampones and walking on rock with carampones is not easy so it makes difficult.  When you reach around 7200m then starts little ice section and then snow all the way to camp-III.

The popular part of K2 known as BLACK PYRAMID is here. There are so many old ropes and ladder on black pyramid. We cut down so many old ropes from Black Yyramid this time. The beginning part is little hard, otherwise Black Pyramid is not difficult to climb.

Above this rock, there is one which can be considered as harder part because climber totally hang their body on rope and climb only using jumor (ascender). Since it is angled rocky section, it is difficult to point out where to step while hanging.

Other parts are easier to climb.


                                                                            Camp-III to camp-IV


                                                                                                  Moving from Camp-III to camp-IV

               The way from camp-III to camp-IV is the easiest way on K2. It is just climbing on little steeply snow. Just below the camp-IV, the part of climbing around 200m is more steeply and need to fix a rope. Otherwise there is no danger from anything.


                                                                                     Camp-IV to summit


                                                                        K2 summit Route showing Bottle neck and Shoulder

        The climbing from camp-IV to Bottle Neck is ok like the way between camp-III to camp-IV. Bottle Neck is regarded to be the most dangerous part on K2.  But with the changing time and changing climate, it seems to be getting in better shape and position.  This year, the ice formation looks so stable so I didn’t feel danger while climbing beneath of it.

     Bottle Neck is only formation of ice. The traverse around 50m is little challenging. But once it is fixed with rope then it is safe to climb. After finishing the traverse, it looks ok till you reach the Shoulder if the snow condition is good. But it is not safe to climb if there is fresh snow. Also if there forms the ice instead of snow then it can be danger and difficult. This year was snow all the way to summit after the traverse.  The chance of forming ice between Bottle Neck and shoulder is very low because it is not in direct contact with wind.

Picture of shoulder

   Once you reach the shoulder, then it is very safe and the snow condition is very stable every year. The way from the Shoulder follows though the ridge all the way to summit. I realized that the way from Bottle Neck to shoulder takes more energy to climb so it makes the climbing very weak and slow.

In overall, if the rope is fixed to summit in advance then getting to summit from Camp-IV seems to be easier like other mountains but getting to summit of Everest from South Col is harder compared to this.


                                               International DDtrek K2 Expedition 2014  


                                  From Left: 1.Densa from Nepal, 2.Mingma from Nepal 3. Zdravko 4.Adyine 5.Reza Shalee from Iran, 6. Jamling Bhote from Nepal,                                                                 7. Lien from Singapore and 8. Samuel from Finland.


                                                        How K2 Expedition 2014 started 

           Climbing K2 was always in my mind but never got chance to join any team before. There was negative effects and threat of danger in my mind because of the accident in 2008. I was scared to go there but I was also wanted to do it. Finally I thought to build my own team and move ahead. So my first step was K2 photo publication and news mentioning about my K2 ascend on my blogs. Then I started getting inquiries for joining the team.  There were 8 foreign climbing members and 9 climbing Sherpa from Nepal previously.  But accident of Everest which took life of 16 climbers changed many things and finally we were concluded to 8 climbers in our team including Mr Samuel Mikka who joined our team from Skardu as part from ATP.  


                                                           Formation of K2 team

I and Mr Reza Shahlee from Iran made successful attempt over Mt. Kanchenjunga (8586m) on 20th May 2013. Then his plan was to go Mt. Makalu and Mt. Lhotse together.  But I told that I will be climbing K2 in 2014 Monsoon and refused to join him to those mountains. Immediately Mr. Shahlee also changed and expressed his idea to join me to K2. I was more happy because it gave me more hope for K2 success. I was already talking with some Mexican and British people who later on cancelled showing the reason , “Because of Everest Tragedy which killed 16 climbers, our sponsor refused to give us money”.

Before going Kanchenjunga, I met with Mr. Muharrem Aydin Irmak from Turkey who came to Kathmandu for Everest Expedition.  I met Mr. Irmak in Everest on 20th May 2012. I led the team of Bangladesh male and First Female Everest Expedition. I was able to take the first lady and first male from south side on summit on 19th May 2012. On 20th May, we were heading down to camp-II from south Col (7925m). Below the Yellow band, Mr Irmak was being helped by his Sherpa to descend down. I looked carefully at him and saw his down suit was turn off and he was without one carampone. Since I was carrying heavy load and leading my team down, I didn’t think of helping him. My one team member tried to help him.  We were walking behind them because it was not possible to overtake as it was completely on blue ice. In final I had to help him to descend down faster to camp-III. Reaching camp-III we boiled water and took hot water and juice and some cookies sharing with Mr Irmak and his Sherpa too. Then I sent my team with other 2 climbing Sherpa and I stayed back to help Mr Irmak to descent on the foot of Lhotse face below camp-III. It was not easy but we made it successfully. So he was happy for that and we met in Kathmandu after a year coincidently because we were not in contact to each other. We were taking beer in Thamel, touristic center in Kathmandu. He asked my plan and I also told about K2 too. Then Mr Irmak also expressed his feeling of joining my team.

 Mr Zdravko Dejanovic from Macedonia was not introduced with me. He sent me message on facebook mentioning that he wanted to join our Annapurna Expedition 2014 which he could not join. He also told to join Mt K2 with us. He was on K2 in 2013 already but he could not success so wanted to try this time.

Mr Lien Chong Luen from Singapore was friend of Mr Jamling Bhote. So it was our joint venture with Jamling Bhote.  Our friend, Densa Bhote as a part of NNMGA as we are doing course under Nepal National Mountain Guide Association affiliated to UIAGM/IFMGA. We were introduced here.

   There joined another team member, Mr Samuel Mikka from Finland from Skardu.  He was direct client to ATP, our tour operator in Pakistan. We trek together and shared the dining whole expedition and climbed together till summit. 

Finally 19-June 2015 we left for K2 with warm goodbye by friends




19-06-2014 to 07-07-2014

                                                                                                           dinner at Chinese Restaurant in Islamabad,Pakistan


                      Our K2 expedition started with drops of rain from Tribhuwan International airport, Kathmandu on 19th June. Reaching at hotel in Islamabad, we had dinner and slept as we reached lately. Next day, we met all our team members.  We stayed 3 night in Islamabad waiting for flight to Skardu but we were unlucky so we had to drive 2 days to reach Skardu.  We had to repack our equipment so we spent 2 days rest and started drove to Ashkoli.  We did 6 days trekking to reach K2 base camp. The trekking trial to base camp was not easy. I felt getting to base camp was much more challenging than climbing K2.  I still remember the Baltro glacier which is longest glacier in the world.  Walking in very hot temperature from Ashkoli to Paiju is the worst part of trekking. Then trekking from Paiju to base camp is also accounted to be the most challenging and tiring days.  Reaching at base camp and taking 2 days rest after that was awesome.



08-07-2014-Puja at Base camp


                                                                                                   Praying at base camp


       We had very clear and sunny day. According to Buddhism, we made Puja  at base camp which means celebration of worshipping the God wishing for good weather and safe climbing and asking to forgive for giving her troubles.

    The weather was not good in the previous days and Mt. K2 was not seen for many days. On our puja day, the weather was so fine and blue sky. It gave belief to our people that there was power in making puja and all were amazed to see the weather so clear only from the day we had puja at B.C.

Finishing our Puja at base camp we went to Sechen Route to know the snow condition and easiness of the route because there were many teams on Abruzzi Route. And we have read that many rocks fall on Abruzzi route while climbing and we didn’t want to have any accident.

  As there was an American lady trying from Senchen Route, we put fixed line from foot to camp-I in a day. Reaching camp-I, I decided to follow Abruzzi Route because the rock on Senchen route is very unstable and there is threat of avalanche in the beginning. So we got back to base camp on the same day and discussed our further plan to go on Abruzzi.


09-07-2014-Base camp to camp-I and back to base camp

    The next day we went to camp-I to set our camp and make some deposit since we were thinking to go and spend a night there. I was easier day and we made some deposit at the camp and returned back to B.C.


10-07-Base camp to camp-I and overnight

It was our first day and night at camp-I. But I was not worried because everyone was fine.  All our team members were already from successful Everest attempt so they had their own experience to prepare to go higher and higher. Camp-I has only limited place for tents so it was hard to put tents because we were almost the last team to reach there. We managed to put 3 tents in 3 different places. 

 We took around 7 hours to reach camp-I on our first time ascent to camp-I with our clients. I and Densa went to camp-I a day earlier so we moved almost one hour later from base camp and joined the team on the way. 


11-07-2014- Camp-I to camp-II

The first day from Camp-I to camp-II was ok. It was first day to camp-II so we didn’t know about the way and it started blowing wind when we were close to the camp. We were almost the last team to put tents at camp-II so all the good places were reserved and we had to cut the ice and make the place for tent. It took almost 2 hours to make one place for one tent.  It was not easy but we made it on time and took enough rest. 


12-07-2014-camp-II to camp-III and back to camp-II (Route fixing)


                                                                                                     Black pyramid part               

       I was feeling very lazy to wake up because it was strong wind blowing outside. We had our plan to open route and fix the rope till camp-III. I woke up at around 8 and left camp-II at around 9 am having light breakfast and tea. Other Sherpas were fixing the rope but they were little slow because I met them very close to camp-II though they left one hour earlier than me.

       As soon as I met them, I started taking lead from the beginning of Black Pyramid and I continued all the way till the last part of ice just below the camp-III. I gave the rope to other Sherpa and I carried only 2  coils rope which I was fixing myself without belay from partner. They were looking tired and I was moving faster and faster as it was rocky sections which were not difficult for me.  I was there at around 2pm and we touched the snow and ice part. I waited other Sherpa around 40minutes hiding behind a rock avoiding wind because I finished the rope I carried. Soon it was whiteout so we had to turn back because we were scared to fix above as we all were new climbers and could not point out the direction.  But it was not easy to fix those ropes because we had very high wind and it was freezing while making knot on ropes. There was a Pakistan team to fix the rope but they returned back because of high wind and we got appreciation because we Sherpa from Nepal dared to fix in such wind and we did it safely.  Our team member came above the Black Pyramid and returned back.

    Returning base camp, I was upset with some Pakistani and Nepalese climbers because the credit of fixing rope was given to another Nepalese company though my Sherpa and myself were more responsible to fix those rope.  Then I decide not to fix more rope further and I discussed the same thing with Jamling. Instead we gave 300/-$ and 3 coils of rope to Pakistan team and told that we won’t move further in fixing team. There was big discussion which almost broke out into fight.  But we remained on our own decision.


13-07-2014-Descent back to base camp

I work up at 6:30 and burnt the gas and started melting snow. It was easy day so we had decided to leave at around 8am from camp-II. I made tea and light breakfast and called everyone in same tent. Finishing our breakfast we put on our gears and left the camp. It took almost 2 hours to reach to camp-I. We meet many Sherpa friends and other climber at camp-I. They are going to set their tents and some of them were going for acclimatization till camp-III. Drinking our bottled water and canned fruit at camp-I, we descent down from there.


14 to 19-07-2014-Rest day at base camp

Rest after 3-4 days hard work is always good. Our plan was to take 2 days rest and again climb up till camp-III to set up the camps and transfer our food, oxygen and tents. But after taking 2 days rest, the weather started getting worse. It started snowing after 2 days. So we had to stop at base camp till 19th July. 


20-07-2014-Base camp to camp-I

We left the base camp at around 6am with the aim to go directly to camp-II. But we could not because of continuous snowfall for 4 days. It took more than 7hrs to reach camp-I so we decided to stay there and I got the weather report for 5 days and it showed best weather on 26th June. 27th June looked to be best but it showed snowfall in the evening. So we changed our decision upto camp-II and return back to base camp and plan for 26th summit push.


21-07-2014- Camp-I to camp-II and back to base camp

We woke up early in the morning and left camp-I. It took only around 3 hrs to reach camp-II. We had one of our tent broken because of high wind. So we transferred all our equipment in another tent and emptied the broken one. Our another tent was covered by snow and because of wind and the zip was opened  by itself so the tent was full of snow too. It took more than hour to clean it. After that we returned back to base camp.


22-07-2014- Rest day at base camp

One day rest was important for us because we went camp-I and camp-II and back on same time. Actually we came back thinking we should go on 26thJuly because our weather forecast showed snow on 27th June in the evening.  Reaching at base camp, I first discussed about summit plan with Jamling and we again made our decision to follow our own plan on 27th July.

  It was rest day so spent the day taking shower, preparing for summit push, looking on Broad peak because the climbers were going last camp for summit push, other four friends played cards whole the day.


23-07-2014- Base camp to camp-I and then camp-II

 We woke up early in the morning and we wanted to leave at 5am. Since we were going for summit, we wanted to reach each camp early and take enough rest. The weather was very cool and fine.

When we reached inside the ice section, Mr Lien mistakenly step on a thin ice part which broke and he entered inside a deep small ice lake. Though we continued around 25 minutes without changing his pants and boot. We reached at advance base camp and it was warm with good sunshine. We put on our carampones  and get ready for further climbing. Lien also changed his socks but he refused to change his boots and pants.

We climbed up slowly. We were there at camp-I at around 2pm. I cooked some noodles and ate. After that I moved to camp-II directly on the same day with Densa Bhote. We moved slowly and stayed at lower camp-II just below the House Chimney. 


24-07-2014- Camp-I and camp-II

   On that day, our team members were coming from camp-I to camp-II and we went camp-II to camp-III with tents and some oxygen bottles. We put on tent at camp-III and came back. Our team members were already at camp-II when we were back from camp-III to camp-II.


25-07-2014-Camp-II to camp-III

     Camp-II to camp-III was longer and tiring day for our team member.  They were looking tired.  But all members were fine to continue further.  Mr Irmak wanted to give up climbing from above the Black Pyramid but I told him to continue and I stayed with him back. We move slowly but continuously. We met the team member after finishing the rocky section and continued slowly to camp-III. We had already fixed tent there so it was easy for me. We reached there and entered inside the tent directly. I took tea and some cookies and left camp-III again carrying our few equipment. It took me around an hour to reach below the camp-IV. It was already 5pm so I deposited the load there digging little snow and returned back.  It was tiring day but was easy day.


26-07-2014-Camp-III to Camp-IV

  Camp-III to camp-IV was easiest day of K2 climbing. There was no fixed rope till the below of camp-IV except 150m fixed rope which touches the camp-IV.  We started to climb up at around 8am and we reached camp-IV at around half past 12. I started at last accompanying Mr Irmak and left him behind when we reached close to the fixed line and move ahead to meet other team member. When we were close to camp-IV, I left all the team members again and went ahead to put tent.  I reached earlier than other team members. I put on the tent and there arrived other team members.  I put them inside the tent telling them to melt snow and prepare water and went down again to pick up previous deposit.  It took me around 30minutes to go down and come back. Then I started cooking and preparing for summit push. 


27-07-2014- Summit night and Day

                                                                                          On the summit of Mt K2 on 27-07-2014
                   We started our summit climbing at around 10:25pm on 26th July. The weather was so nice without wind and cloud. We were only 14 climbers on that night.  The Finland climber, Mr Samuel Mansikka already started at around 10pm. Our team and American team started at the same time. Mr Jamling led ahead and remaining followed him. I was trying to help Mr Aydin Irmak with his climbing gears. Mean while they left us all and I could not leave him alone so I made him walk first and took him whole night. He had problem on his legs since from beginning of expedition, he was very slow. We reached below the little rocky section of Bottle neck at around 5am. It was not good idea for me to take him higher.  I felt his pain on leg would not let him to summit on time. The team members were already on the bottle neck so I told him to go back because I could not stay more with him and it seems that he cannot continue too.


My decision was in the favor of the team. Since Mr Irmak wanted to climb K2 without supporting climbing Sherpa, he was supposed to walk alone whole the nigh too. But he was a member in my team so I tried to help him as much as I could.  There was good sun shine and it was getting warmer, I felt Mr Mirmak would be good and the way below the bottle neck to last camp was easy going .

  I was feeling strong on the summit day without using oxygen also. Reaching at the shoulder, I first check  Mr Reza Shahlee’s and Mr Zdravko Dejanovic’s oxygen level and ask Jamling if Mr Lien Choong Luen has enough too. Everyone was fine to climb up further but they were little slow. I increased their oxygen pressure thinking that they will walk little faster. But there was not much difference. It was sure that we would make safely to summit and back, we were not worried. The weather was very clear without any cloud and wind.  We took few minutes rest reaching above the shoulder. The summit looked so close from there but it took around 2 and half hours to reach the summit. As soon as we reach the summit ridge, we started walking faster.  We gained our energy back and everyone was trying to enjoy in their own way.   

    Spending around 40minutes on the summit, we started descending back. As soon as we reached the shoulder, the weather started changing. It started to snow and was little cloudy too but there was no wind so it was not big problem for us. When everyone crossed the bottle neck, the weather started to be clear again. Descending was quiet easy though we were tired. We all finally reached back to camp-IV safely and we decided to stay at camp-IV.

   All entered inside the tents. I stayed outside for few minutes looking back to summit way. I was questioning myself, “Why people say K2 is the most dangerous mountain in the world”. The way to summit is quiet safe and not difficult to climb except the threat at Bottle Neck. This year the bottle neck was quite stable and safe.

I took some pictures and still I stayed outside and suddenly I heard a sound. I looked the way below camp-IV thinking somebody was coming. But I saw nobody. I again tried to hear the sound carefully and I saw Pemba coming from Sechen route. I went down to see him because I felt he got into problem and shouting. He was looking for way to come up because there was big crevasse. I helped him to pass the crevasse and Densa melted ice and gave him water and tea. There was a tent left by one team so I suggested him not to put their tent and use that left tent. Putting his backpack inside that tent, we went down to fetch some of their climbing equipment which he left behind.  We went down and looked for the way to come camp-IV also and lucky I found good snow ridge. Finding a way, we brought his left equipments to camp-IV.  He was looking so tired seeing his face and frozen fluid in his nostrils and I also entered inside my tent and made little food for him. Then another Pakistani climber and Brazilian American lady also arrived there.  After that I took a nap for a while.



28-07-2014-Descent from camp-IV to camp-II


                                                                                        Mingma at end of the rope up. It was completely whiteout


                                 We had discussed to descent down at 7am early in the morning but we all were slept till late. We packed our equipment and Jamling started showing how to descent on short roping system because there was no fixed rope all the way between camp-III and camp-IV. Finally we started at around 10:30am. As soon as we descent around 150m from camp-IV, it was cloudy at once. Then I took 60m main rope from my rucksack and I connected with 4 more climbers. Jamling and Lien were back and they were coming on another rope. I stayed at last because the last person has vital role for safety and security on short rope system while descending. It was completely white out so I could not see other climbers ahead though we were on same main rope. Fortunately, we could find the foot print of the previous days which took us camp-III safely.


  Mr Irmak was so tired and he was also saying there is more pain on his thigh so he was taking rest most of the time. Sometime he use to sit on steeply snow part and he slipped. It was so difficult for me to break his speed and hold him. I scold him lot and tried to bring him smoothly. We reached at camp-III at around 1:20pm. There was fixed rope all the way below camp-III so it was much easier for us.

    We sent 4 people ahead and then I started. It started blowing little wind and was cloudy. Even though we continued and finally we reached camp-II at around 5pm.The Macedonian guy felt so tired so he entered inside the first tent which was of someone else and decided to stay there.  The Iranian and Turkish were inside our tent. I suggested to descent from there because our plan was to go base camp but they were not ready. We discussed to go base camp directly so we left all our food at camp-IV for Pemba and his team. So that night we slept taking little food searching from our old rubbish and from a double bag which was left there by another team.


29-07-2014-Descent from camp-II to Base Camp

It was easy day. We had tent at camp-I. So I wanted to carry it at once down to base camp because I didn’t want to go back camp-I again. We closed the tent and clear the place. Fortunately we met Pakistani team going up for rescuing a Spanish climber who died at camp-IV one day later.  Those Pakistan team brought 5 porters till advance base camp. They came to us and negotiate with us for carrying our load back to base camp. We were ready to pay as per their demand and let them carry our all equipment. Food at base camp is always better than in higher camps. We enjoyed the bone marrow soup arriving back to base camp. Then Nepalese girls came to see us at our camp which was good part of being of same citizen.


30-07-2014-Rest and packing day

   Spare day at base camp is always good.  We took shower, pack our equipment. We also made name plate in the memory of late Miguel Alverez (photo) and put it in memorial point at K2 base camp .  He was unknown to us but we were joined in same agency in Pakistan so it was part of our responsibility too. We pray for his soul rest in peace.


31-07-2014-Base camp to Goro-II

 Trek to Goro-II was long but was easy. It was just walking on glacier. Also trekking on glacier is not safe at all because it keeps on changing and we need to follow the previous foot print and direction carefully. We also lost the way when we were near to Concordia. So never walk inside glacier alone.  When we reach at Goro-II, all were tired and waiting for the porters and donkeys to bring our luggage and tents.  One of our Kitchen staff brought locally prepared alcohol which was so perfect at that time though the taste was so nasty.


01-02-2014-Goro-II to Urducas

It was short day but was the most difficult day because the day is more on giants rocks but it was easy day for us because it was short day and we reached our camp so early.


02-08-2014 Urducas to Jula

Trek to Jula was the longest for us. It was tiring day. We left from our camp early in the morning. Till we finished the Baltro glacier it was hard way.  Once again we missed our track and we lost the way. Finally we got back to our previous way and follow the way to Paiju. We took our lunch and rest at Paiju. We continued again staying there for an hour. I got little diarrhea and stomach pain so it was so difficult for me to walk. We reached there at around 4:30pm and felt so tired so slept.  


03-08-2014- Jula to Ashkoli and drive to Skardu

Trek from Jula to Ashkoli was short and easy. We started at 7 in the morning and we were at Ashkoli at half past 11am. Wewere supposed to drive from there as soon as possible but we got bad news that there was landslide and the road was blocked. There were only few jeeps at Ashokoli so those jeep took some of our team members and Italian team ahead till the blocked area and then transfer to another jeep from another side of blocked road.

  We had to wait till 5pm for the jeep come back and pick up us. We had only breakfast in the morning so we were too hungry and we didn’t find any hygienic restaurant to eat. We drove from there and changed another jeep after driving around 2hours.  We took some food on the way and started to drive again. That was the worst day of our entire program. We reached Skardu at mid night and took light food and slept because we had to drive to Chilas next day again.


04-08-2014-Skardu to Chilas

  We were praying to fly from Skardu to Islamabad because it is 2 days drive.  Unfortunately we didn’t get chance to fly. So we had to drive again. Our equipment didn’t arrive on time. We got our equipment from Ashkoli to Skardu at 10am so we repack our equipment and started to drive from there at around half past 11am.  I slept most of the time inside the bus on a cozy seat. Since Chilas is regarded to be the most terror area, we were scouted by Army Jeep. We reached Chilas at around 10pm, took dinner and slept again.



05-08-2014 Chilas to Islamabad

Chilas to Islamabad was also same. Just drive and sleep.

Islamabad was our last destination together. Some of our members left Pakistan on the same night. Sleeping for few minutes, woke up early and again started to repack. So at 8am, I also said goodbye to Islamabad.


                                                                  How I felt K2?

Climbing K2 was completely different from what I heard for me. It is regarded to be the most difficult mountain to climb, so called “Mountain of Mountains”. But I didn’t feel so. The first 14*8000er Reinhold Messner said, “climbing K2 is difficult and safely back to base camp after succeeding K2 is my second birth”. If the legendary climber, says so then I would love to do all the 14 peaks because I regard I did the most dangerous one. But for me if I have to compare K2 with Everest then I would say Everest is harder and more challenging. The reason can be, Everest has more ice to climb and the summit day has more rocky section and K2 has more rock and ice to climb below camp-3 but summit day is easier compared to climbing to other camps. Khumbu Ice fall and Lhotse face are more scary than Chimney House and Black Pyramid on K2.  

Because I am well trained Mountain Guide so it became easier to me???? It’s a question to me by myself because I didn’t feel K2 as hard as I heard or I read.


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                                                                          ORANG on the summit of Mt K2

                                          Thanks to

                                     Dreamers Destination Trek and Expedition Pvt Ltd


                                       Adventure Tour Pakistan (ATP)