Everest and Lhotse Expedition 2016

 

The season of climbing started in Nepal with huge successful summit earlier than expected time. Successful ascents on Annapurna, Manaslu, Cho oyu and Everest are new beginning for Nepal’s tourism after the destructive earthquake which saddened tourism in Nepal.

 I began my trip from Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal on 22nd April with my team for Everest and Lhotse. We had successful ascent on Mt Lobuje central as a part of our acclimatization. We had a great worshipping puja at base camp on our arrival. Having 2 days rest at base camp, we headed up camp-1, 2 and 3. our Lhotse team just touched the Lhotse face whereas our Everest team spent a night at camp-3 and now we are all back to base camp waiting for good weather window to go summit.

  I was already on Everest 5 times with 4 successful ascents. I was from Nepal side in 2009, 2011 and 2012. Beside this, we were here in 2014 and 2015 but we had to wind up without stepping through Khumbu Icefall. The two years sad histories on Everest had no any successful summit from Nepal side.

 It seems like Everest and Lhotse is very kind towards us this time. The route through Khumbu Icefall is the safest as ever before. There are no more popcorns ice, no more dangerous hanging ice, no as many ladders as it used to be. The way above camp-I is also much better. The Lhotse face which used to be fully ice is covered by snow and is very comfortable to step up and down.

   We started early in the morning at 3 am on 4th may from base camp so it was dark when we passed through Khumbu Icefall. On 8th May, we came back from camp-II after having breakfast and it was sunny day. Khumbu icefall looked as beautiful as it used to be. It was little scary walking though it but I was feeling myself safe though. When we were in the middle of the icefall, I got surprised to see big rocks and moraines. It was never seen before. It clearly signifies Global Warming and its effects on mountains. I usually make kind of joke on Global Warming when my friends talk around but this time it saddened me seeing such changes in Khumbu icefall. What can be the options to stop this????

 

The year 2016’s spring is very important for Nepal and its main economy source, Tourism. The success on every mountains send good message in encouraging foreigners to visit Nepal after the destructive earthquake in 2015 which created negative impacts. Everything is going well and success on different mountains continues……..

This year, I have 8 friends for attempting Everest and Lhotse, among them 2 were here in 2015 and one was in 2014 and 2015.  Ms Ma Liyamu (Maizi) had to quit her expedition in 2014 before reaching base camp but she came here and stayed for few nights and returned home playing 3-4 days on ice at base camp. Again in 2015, she arrived here in a hope to climb Everest and Lhotse but she was rescued with 3 broken ribs by avalanche at Everest base camp after the earthquake. We lost our 6 beloved friends in same avalanche. She didn’t lose her hope and he she is back again here this time too. They are our hope and we are theirs. So it is important to have successful ascents on every mountains this time.

We are hoping for more successful expeditions this seasons.here is my team for Lhotse and Everest....

 

Everest Team:

  1. Mingma Gyalje sherpa-Nepal

  2. Phurba Tenzing sherpa-Nepal

  3. Kaji shepa- Nepal

  4. Dakipa sherpa-Nepal

  5. Ms Ma Liyamu (Maizi)-china

  6. Mr Zhou Hua (Eric)-china

  7. Mr Liu Lei (Allen)-china

  8. Mr Pranay Bandbuche-India

Lhotse Team

  1. Mingma Gyalje sherpa-Nepal

  2. Dawa Gyalje sherpa-Nepal

  3. Dorjee Tshering Sherpa-Nepal

  4. Lhakpa nuru Sherpa-Nepal

  5. Ms Ma Liyamu (maize)-china

  6. Ms Dong Hongjunan (Jingxue)-china

  7. Mr Liu Yongzhong (Azhong)-China

  8. Mr Khoo Swee Chiow-Singapore

  9. Mr Muharrem Aydine Irmak (Turkish)-quit already

Base camp staffs

  1. Mr Phujung Lama-head chef

  2. Mr Namkha Sherpa-Nepali cook

  3. Mr Rajesh Magar-Helper

  4. Mr Gyaljen sherpa-Helper

Camp-II staffs

  1. Mr Phuru sherpa-Head cook

  2. Mr Rajendra Thakuri- Helper

Thanks to Mr Zou Hanxi for base camp communication arrangement.....

Sorry, my net is very slow at everest base camp to upload pictures.

 

 

 

   Mingma Completed UIAGM/IFMGA Guide Certification Course

    Mingma completed the international standard training provided by NNMGA affiliated to UIAGM/IFMGA. On 21st March 2016, Mingma completed full guide course. Therefore he is one of the International Mountain Guide from Nepal.

 

 

   Mingma made First Solo Ascent from Nepal

    On 28th October 2015, Mingma soloed on Mt Chobuje via west face. This is the first solo ascent from Nepal. It is also the first ascent of Mt Chobuje via west face.

 

 

                                                                                                                Mt Chobutse (6686m)

                                         

               Mingma has been climbing since 2006 and he is well experienced and trained climber from Nepal. With his decade of climbing expericenc and skil, he planned to make solo ascent. Nobody from Nepal made any solo climbing though Nepal is known for homeland of Mt Everest and many other mountains like Mt Kanchenjunga, Mt Lhotse, Mt Makalu, Mt Cho Oyu, Mt Daulagiri, Mt Manaslu, Mt Annapurna, Mt Ama Dablam and many more.

   Mingma on 28-Oct-2015 made successful solo ascent on Mt Chobuje. This is the first solo ascent from Nepal. This is also the first successful ascent on Mt Chobuje via west face.